| Talyllyn: The World's First Preserved Railway |
| 1. A Gray Day at Tywyn | 5. Changing Ends | |
| 2. The Honorable Rituals | 6. Conversation at Abergynolwyn | |
| 3. An Iron Horse Indeed | 7. Down Train | |
| 4. Ascent to Nant Gwernol |
| Seven: Down Train |
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At
16:10 sharp our driver released the brakes,
and we drifted through the turnouts and down past the station limits. I fear I
remember little of the down trip. I had wanted for so long to visit the Wales narrow
gauge, to ride the little trains and see for myself the gray mountains, and the towns with
their odd and unpronounceable names. I had expected much, yet still I was surprised
by joy: by the strangeness of the carriage, by unexpected motions of the train, by the
stillness of the mountains, by the warmth and kindness of the train crew. I think
that after Abergynolwyn, I wanted to ride-- to rock with the motion, to smell the sweet
sharp coal smoke drifting through the open window, to watch our carriage's moving shadow
projected on the hedge rows. To simply ride.
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| I think
that for her part, Samantha was tiring of
things railway. Good sport that she is though, she simply rooted in her bag and dug
up a book with which to pass the time. It occurred to me that in so doing, she was
having an experience that was in its way more genuine than mine. For me, riding the
Talyllyn was an end in itself. Yet in the railway's heyday, riding the little train
was something the people of this valley did as a matter of course. For most of them
the train was a way to get from where they were, to where they needed to be. The
time they spent aboard the steam cars was time they passed, not marked or savored.
Lost in her book, Samantha reenacted a journey which was truer to the Talyllyn's history
than my own. That she could do so is perhaps the best tribute to everything the
volunteers of the Talyllyn Railway Preservation Society have achieved.
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| With a
last sigh of steam and a final hiss of
braking air, the Tom Rolt clanked to a halt at Tywyn Wharf at 16:55-- right on
time. Quiet and happy, I raised the window frames on either side of our little
compartment, and seated the leather straps back on the studs to hold them closed up
tight-- I had cleaned too many floors and closed too many windows after the last train of
the day in Baltimore to want to make any extra work for my colleagues here. April is
still early in the year, and Wales is surprisingly far North-- the light was already
fading. Samantha and I made our way through the station corridor, out the gates, and
back over the bridge to our car. My first day's trainspotting was done, but my
holiday was far from over. Driving to Tywyn that morning, we had passed by the
university town of Aberystwyth-- and the Vale of Rheidol Railway. I was determined
to make it back-- and two days later, I did.
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All materials, images, text and presentation copyright © 1998 Erik Gray Ledbetter. See Terms of Use. |